Day 9 – Bandarawela to Haputale hike.
We picked up our two local guides Shiva and Dusha, and took a short bus ride to the top of Bandarawela and the start of the tea plantations.
Our trek was relatively easy going but a lot of loose stone underfoot when we were off the paved roads.
We learnt that each field is picked once a week, just the top few leaves (PG Tips). Today was field 1’s turn.
The pickers have to pick 20kg a day to earn 1000rupees. That’s £3.63. Sounds like nothing but with growing their own fruit and veg, it seems to be a peaceful but simple existence.
The women pick the tips whilst the men’s picks are generally bigger and lower quality. The full bags go to the supervisor who checks for quality and weighs their bags.
The trees are Silky Oaks from Australia. Their root systems prevent soil erosion and creates nitrogen. Their leaves keep the bugs away.
There are wild boar, eagles, the odd deer and leaches to look out for, especially when it’s wet.
We were treated to a cup of tea in a bone china cup, half way up the hillside.
Although only 5 miles, the heat, terrain and dodgy knees made the going slow.
These people are generally Tamils, Hindu, Muslim and Christian, all living happily together and working for the common good.
We learnt a few Tamil phrases, but everyone speaks both Sinalise and Tamil here.
Our trek took us over the hill and down the other side. We spotted Crested Serpent Eagles circling the plantation.
We walked into Hapatale town and were invited to Shiva’s family home, where his wife had prepared a traditional Tamil lunch for us. Dosha made from garam and rice flower, something that looked like Bao buns, a vegetable curry and pickles. Desert was Payason. Kind of looked like semolina. Sago and vermicelli, Cardomon, salt and sultanas. You then crush up a piece of fried thick pappadum, to give it texture. Very agreeable.
Of course, some were bursting for the loo (those that didn’t want to wild wee), and were presented with an outhouse (no lighting) with a hole in the ground, with a bucket of water to flush, much to the amusement of the ladies.
His home was simple but functional, with all the homely touches you’d expect. A vegetable garden outside provided some of what we ate, and surplus went to market. Just a nerdy point to note, our UK houses have 100amp supplies coming in. Theirs have just 40amps coming in. But it’s adequate for their needs.
We departed and a short walk into town was our accommodation, the Srilak View hotel.
Ok, no pool, no fridge but WOW, what a view! Really cute rooms with no aircon (it’s not needed up here) and multicoloured mosquito nets over the bed.
We had a snooze and was awoken by the mosque’s call to prayer. Not as melodious as in Morocco, but all of a sudden you’re in a different part of world, hearing something different.
We walked into Hapatale town for a gander at the shops and to find AloeVera for sunburn. The locals were super friendly and no hassling at all. We stopped at a street seller and picked up some fried spiced lentil nibbles and some rice nibbly things.
Everywhere you go in Sri Lanka, you’ll find street vendors selling Parippu Vada or Dhal Cookies (sometimes called Crispy Lentil Dhal Cookies). They’re 10SLR each (20SLR in the tourist areas) and because they’re made of lentils, you feel massively righteous having something healthy. Ignore the fact they’re deep fried and one is never enough, you’ll realise that this is the food of gods. A good Vada vendor becomes your friend very quickly. Check out my other post about my attempt to make these at home.
Sri Lankan Parippu Vada – Dhal Cookies – Crispy Lentil Dhal Fritters
A local dreadlocked dude clocked Mrs Dude’s hair and stopped for a chat. Of course his uncle owned the hotel we’re staying at and he was urging us to go out for a beer and a joint with him, which we politely declined.
Drugs are totally illegal in Sri Lanka and drinking outside of tourist bars and pubs is frowned upon. There a couple of local pubs in the villages but they are 100% male domains and in our experience, a woman drinking is unheard of.
Sunset didn’t happen as the clouds rolled in but had to dig out the jumper this evening as it’s defiantly cool.
Dinner was a Sri Lankan buffet. Seriously, I can’t get sick of rice and curry!
Travel Dude 