Day 4 – Anrathapura to Polonnaruwa.
ELEPHANTS IN THE ROAD!!
Departed our hotel at 8am and headed south east climbing slowly into the highlands.
Stopped on route at Athreya Ayurvedic Spa for a 2 hour massage. Fell asleep twice and snored. Ayverdic medicine is a long term cure that works from the inside out, while body balance and includes dietary changes, so it’s more a way of life than medicine. The massage uses 7 or more essential herbs and spices (don’t mention KFC). Combined with reflexology it was worth every rupee.
We would never have found this place without our guide, so if you’re ever heading this way, here’s the link:
Continued to Polonnaruea through Minneriya National Park on a main road/highway. We saw signs warning of elephants crossing and all of a sudden, doing about 50mph, we came across an elephant in the road!
And then another, whilst trucks and HGVs rumbled past. Cows in India are one thing but these are big wild elephants on a busy main road.
Stopped at the Gunners Club for lunch. A modern cafe backing onto the infantry training ground and run by the army. And there was a massive frigging gun outside (oh I’m such a child).
Had egg patty (small Cornish pasty with boiled egg inside), fish roti (super tasty) and butter cake, washed down with a Milo malted chocolate milkshake. The guy looked at me like ‘that’s a kids drink’ but it was delicious. All for the equivalent of about £1.
Got to our hotel, the Siyanco Holiday Resort. I think we’re the first tourists here since covid. The city is surrounded by jungle, so lots of bugs, lizards and mozzies. We dumped the bags on the bed and a baby lizard shot out across the sheets. Great hilarity trying to catch and release it outside.
So we were meant to cycle into the old city but the heavens opened, so disappointedly bus it was.
We visited a huge 12th century palace and monastery complex. Lots of old ruins and a museum, This was the capital city in the 12th century after Indian invaders ransacked Anrathapura. I’m a bit templed out.
Interesting architecture and noted temples where relics were once kept but it’s now a massive archaeological site with a museum. Lots of hassling street sellers though. I suppose everyone needs to make a living. Tried to get a handle on the written language but I think I’ll leave that to another lifetime!
Found a couple of ruined temples/stupas that originally held the sacred Buddha tooth and other artefacts but through invasion had been moved elsewhere.
Also we’re a load of Buddha statues carved into the hillside, which were quite cool.
Took shelter under a Margosa tree which happened to be the same antiseptic plant used in the sauna at our massage!
Back to the hotel for a wash and dry off, then off to dinner at The Farmers Restaurant, Piyumali gedara Restaurant.
On route there was a massive power outage. Turns out that Sri Lanka has to import all its oil and coal. Hydro doesn’t produce enough electricity and solar is not cost effective. Due to the exchange rate and Sri Lanka’s poor international economy, they can’t afford fuel. So there’s a rolling blackout in certain districts every evening. We only didn’t notice because generators kicked in.
Driving without street lights in the dark, with buses overtaking in front of you and potentially elephants in the road, is a thrill seekers paradise.
Oh my god. The food was amazing. All home cooked over a wood fire. There was Wadi – crunchy fried lentil parties, Amburula curry (looked like mango), Jackfruit curry, Bread fruit curry (like small jackfruit), Dried fish curry (chewy), deep fried lake fish and sides. All served on a Lotus leaf plate.
Deserts was a selection of sweet sticking things and deep fried battered coconut. What a fantastic meal!
It was only after dinner that I found out everything was cooked over an open fire. Wow. That’s bushcraft on another level!
I spoke to the cook about these spiced fried lentil cakes. These are Parippu Vada – Crispy Lentil Dhal Fritters. Check out my recipe for this amazing dish.
There are weird jungle/forest noises outside and birds making heavy breathing sounds. Need sleep, got 400 stairs to climb in the morning.
Note. Some of the photos are a bit boring. It’s disrespectful to pose/selfie in front of a Buddha statue or sacred monument (even though he wasn’t a god).
Travel Dude 